Close-up of black lace fabric pieced over a nude lining on a cutting table, showing the scalloped edge and open lace patternwork.

Pieter Mulier's First Versace Dress Is Black Lace, Not Color

Atelier Notes

Pieter Mulier's first public look for Versace, worn by Nicole Kidman on the Practical Magic 2 red carpet, swaps the house's usual color and print for a single black lace gown built directly over a nude base. We look at what the construction choice signals ahead of his actual runway debut in February 2027, and where the same sheer-lace principle already lives in our own Black Flowers and Lace Poetry pieces.

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A woman modeling black lace lingerie with a matching garter belt in a minimalist concrete room with dramatic window light. The brand name 'LIONESS LINGERIE' is visible in the bottom right corner.

SFMOMA Is Calling Fashion Sculpture. The Corset That Built the Silhouette Isn't in the Room.

Atelier Notes
SFMOMA just announced Dior to McQueen: Fashioning Form, a 2027 exhibition pairing 45 fashion designers with 15 sculptors around the idea that both reshape the human figure through construction. We look at what the show's opening pairing, Dior's 1947 Bar suit beside a Louise Bourgeois sculpture, leaves out: the boned foundation garment that actually built that waistline.
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Black lace lingerie set including a bra and matching panty with attached garter straps, photographed on a dark gray background with dramatic diagonal lighting.

The Newspaper Print Is Back on the Runway, and It Still Only Works in Black and White

Atelier Notes

Chanel and Dior brought the newspaper print back this year. Its real history runs from Schiaparelli's 1935 press-clipping textile to Galliano's 2000 Dior dress, and it has always only worked in black and white.

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Three-quarter view of a structured black lingerie set worn beneath an open tailored coat in a stone-walled atelier interior, showing the architectural strap construction.

Four Owners in Fifteen Years: What It Actually Takes to Keep a Paris Atelier Alive

Atelier Notes

Moreau Paris has changed hands four times since its 2011 revival — and just survived court liquidation. The story of what it actually takes to keep a Parisian atelier alive when the conglomerates aren't buying.

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Extreme close-up of hand-finished lace edging and visible stitch detail on a burgundy mesh panel

Shoppers Don't Trust AI Product Photos. For Made-to-Order Lingerie, the Stakes Are Higher.

Atelier Notes

A new survey finds most shoppers can't detect AI-generated product images — and that's exactly why they want them labelled. For made-to-order lingerie, where fit and fabric can't be faked, the trust gap is sharper than anywhere else.

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Three-quarter view of a black lace bodysuit's architectural strap structure against a dark backdrop

LVMH Has Sold Patou, and the Filed Accounts Explain Why

Atelier Notes
LVMH has sold the Parisian house Patou after eight years and 23.9 million euros in accumulated losses. The public filings show what it costs to relaunch a heritage couture name as a global ready-to-wear brand, and why a made-to-order atelier carries a different cost structure.
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Amber back view lingerie set

Eight Parts, 270 Stitches: The V&A Puts Trench Coat Construction on Display

Atelier Notes
Last updated: 1 August 2026 On 28 July, Burberry and the V&A announced a free display called The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon. It opens at V&A South Kensington on...
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close-up of an exposed boning channel wrapped in sheer organza on a bridal bustier, detail shot showing the construction sitting on the outside of the fabric

Dilara Findikoglu Put the Corset on the Outside of the Wedding Dress

Atelier Notes
Findikoglu's new bridal capsule, released 28 July, treats boning channels, lacing and a garter belt as the visible design rather than the hidden engineering. A note on why bridal keeps borrowing from lingerie.
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Full-length shot in a columned corridor, burgundy garter stockings with visible strap hardware worn over a black slit dress under a velvet blazer, structured silhouette

Why Corsets Are Everywhere on the 2026 Couture Runways

Atelier Notes

Paris couture 2026 put corsets front and centre — not as hidden shapewear, but as the visible architecture of the look. From Schiaparelli's silicone bustiers to Findikoglu's sheer draping, here's why the silhouette has changed jobs.

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